Throughout the dozens of Mexican restaurants in the Greater Madison area, one theme rings true: family. Ask a food truck vendor where their taco recipe comes from or a restaurant owner how they make it all work, the answer is almost always the same. It’s family. A father’s recipe, the kids helping clean tables, sisters and brothers working in the kitchen. And for many Latinos, family doesn’t stop at the front door. Everyone is welcome, and when it comes to Palenque Mexican Bar & Grill, success is measured by community.

Owner Andres Castellano couldn’t say enough about how grateful he is to have opened a restaurant in McFarland. “It’s a great community. They’ve supported the restaurant very well. I can say we chose the best town to open a restaurant in, honestly.” He wasn’t expecting to be so successful so quick, even opening a second location in Beaver Dam. Through COVID and other hiccups, McFarland residents have always been there.

Meals to Andres are a reflection of his values. It’s family first, and the food is the reason to get together. “Each kitchen in Mexican houses, when you enjoy a meal, is a special moment for everyone,” says Andres. “Everyone sits together, and we’re all together at the same time. It’s not even sitting down to eat—it’s cooking, the whole thing. The whole meeting with brothers, sisters, moms, and dads, it’s a tradition. With my son, he prepares the whole carne asada. My son is only eight years old.”

I don’t know if Andres’ son is preparing the carne asada street tacos at the restaurant, but it’s a recipe as good as it is simple: grilled steak, cilantro, and onion on corn tortillas with a slice of lime. And if you’re looking for something a little more involved, consider the molcajete: chicken, steak, shrimp, and chorizo with green onions. “The key is the chipotle sauce and melted cheese on top,” says Andres. “Our molcajete is the number one customer favorite.”

Almost every recipe on the menu is Andres’—a few come from his mother—but he doesn’t have any formal training. Over the course of his life, he’s worked from the back of the house to the front. As he puts it, “I’m not a chef, but I’ve cooked most of my life.”

Having been a McFarland staple, it’s surprising to learn Palenque is only nine years old, opening on February 18, 2016. When it first opened, the dining area was only half the size it is now, but even ardent locals may not remember the restaurant’s humble beginnings because it was only “six months after opening, the lady next door left. The owner of the building asked if we wanted to expand. I was like, why not?”

With the help of his brother, father, and a few friends, Andres added on to the existing eight tables to make something that truly had room for everyone. Of course, if everyone is coming over for lunch and dinner, it’s important to be accommodating, which explains the diverse menu.

Consider the small steak menu, featuring T-bones cooked to order and served in a range of ways, from Mexicano to Gringo (the former served with sauteed onions, tomatoes, and green peppers and the latter served with fries). And if you’re bringing some picky eaters or are just in the mood for some Americana, there’s even cheeseburgers.

But the vibe is distinctly Central American. From the flagstone bar, which displays a nice array of spirits, to the bright and colorful furniture, each depicting a one-of-a-kind image, it feels more authentic than the sepia-filtered scenes in Breaking Bad. “All the booths, chairs, and tables, they come from Guadalajara, Mexico,” says Andres. “They’re hand carved. Each table and chair is a piece of art to me.”

So yes, through marrying place and culture, there are margaritas, but there are also brandy Old Fashioneds. And yes, there are nine different tequilas, but there’s also Scotch. There’s Jarritos, but there’s also Sprite. It’s an ode to community, both Andres’ and McFarland’s.

Also on the menu are a variety of enchiladas. If you ask Andres which is the best, he’ll steer you toward the Enchiladas Poblanos. Four rolled corn tortillas, one with ground beef, another with shredded chicken, a third with shredded cheese, and the last with refried beans, dipped in poblano sauce then topped with lettuce, sour cream, shredded cheese, and tomato. But, as it has been since the beginning, it’s a big menu, filled with fajitas, chimichangas, taquitos, and more. “I don’t like to do many menu changes because, sooner or later, some customer will come back disappointed.”

There are even vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free items that are easy to find on the menu. Depending on lifestyle or dietary restrictions, a customer might enjoy a spinach quesadilla, spinach enchiladas, or a cheese quesadilla filled with grilled mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, and green peppers.

It’s inspiring to see just how far Andres has gone to create a space everyone feels welcome in. I’m reminded of my college roommate, Rico. He invited me to everything, and his Mexican mother and Puerto Rican father were always happy to feed everyone who came through their door. Just as important as it is to be a good host, the residents of McFarland have been phenomenal guests for Andres and Palenque. As Andres says, “I couldn’t have chosen a better place to open a restaurant.”

Kyle Jacobson is a writer who thinks life is like a taco: when it’s almost finished, you wish you had one more.

Photographs by Eric Tadsen.

Palenque Mexican Bar & Grill
5906 US-51
McFarland, WI 53558
(608) 838-1933
palenquemexicanbarandgrillwi.com